Bhoramdeo is situated in the north-western Chhattisgarh district of Kawardha. Nestled in the Maikal Hills, 12th century Bhoramdeo temple complex is a series of beautiful structures with erotic carvings to rival those at Khajuraho. Two smaller temples are 1-2 km easy walk away.
The Maikal Hills that surround Bhoramdeo are home to many species of central India's spectacular wildlife as well as to the indigenous Baigas & Gonds, whose tolas (villages) dot the countryside. These hills were once part of the land called Gondwana, a vast forest area of tribal kingdoms and Gond clans, many of whose descendants today maintain an animistic, close-to-nature lifestyle that the hurried urban world can only dream of.
The Baiga are 'Pashupati' - Lords of the Animals - with esoteric natural powers. The term 'Baiga' is also used in the Gond world, not to refer to the distinct Baiga people, but as a title conferred on certain individuals with unusual spiritual gifts.
Magic and the unseen powers of Nature play a large part in the lives of these local tribes, but so do music and dance and a joy of living, even in often difficult economic circumstances. Mother Nature, the true Goddess, reigns over everything; so much so that for years the Baiga resisted the use of the plough, fearing it would wound their Mother's flesh.
Markets, festivals and wonderful costumes add to the magic of a walk through this wild but hospitable country, a living journey through a time gone by.
Things to do
Bhoramdeo gives the discerning traveller a chance to relax in an oasis of peace and friendliness along with the rare opportunity to explore Indian life at village level.
You have the chance to spend an afternoon at a pottery village (trying their hand at the wheel or paddling the clay with their bare feet); bamboo craft centre; cow herders' villages; Agaria (blacksmith) villages; many colourful weekly haats (tribal markets), with one falling on almost every day of the week ensuring all guests the chance to visit at least one. There is a large traditional handloom and dying centre in Chhuikhdaan which supplies FabIndia, has a small outlet and is an easy half day outing from Bhoramdeo.
Local walks seeing crop planting, harvesting and threshing are also fascinating to those not from the area as well as watching the distillation (and enjoying sampling) of the flowers of the mahua tree.
A late afternoon trip into Kawardha is another excursion guests enjoy, with a cycle rickshaw ride around town followed by some shopping for spices, local forest honey etc in the bustling bazaar.
Jungle treks take you into a forest thick with birds and clouds of butterflies, as well as mammals including langur and even big cats (leopards and tigers). For encounters of a closer kind there is the Bhoramdeo Wildlife Sanctuary, and the famous Kanha Tiger Reserve (a mere 70km away). Many guests choose to spend a few days walking from Bhoramdeo to Kanha, camping or staying in village homes along the way, spending a few nights at Kanha and then cycling back "home" to Bhoramdeo.
Tribal Dancing: under our responsible tourism code we believe that tribal dancing is best seen within the atmosphere of the village itself and that this keeps dancing a village event which can be enjoyed by everyone, perpetuating a value of the culture by younger members of the community. Dancers are paid in the presence of guests and are pooled in a co-operative fund to support the purchase of traditional dance costumes.
Best time to visit
September – April