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Kanker

Nestled in the bend of river Dudh, a tributary of the Mahanadi, and framed by an arc of hills, this picturesque town is a gateway to tribal Bastar. Kanker, for most of its history, was a tribal kingdom. Descendants of the last ruling dynasty of the Chandravansh are still respected by a town and tribal folk proud of their heritage.

Dotted with monuments from the 19th and the early 20th Centuries, the life of the town is a veritable treasure-trove of vignettes. Its principal road, the axis around which the town takes shape, often becomes a virtual bazaar , where tribal folk, attired in bright clothes and quaint ornaments, gather from neighboring hamlets to trade their wares. From all along this road can be seen the Qila Dongri, a majestic hill that towers over the river and township below. A trek to the top is a pleasant experience and takes you to a temple and its adjacent pool and caves, a bagful of lore, and a great view of Kanker.

The vicinity of Kanker abounds in sites of natural beauty and archaeological significance. Some of these are easily accessible and make excellent short trips. 30 Kms south of Kanker, amidst dense forest, rise the hills of Keshkal. The road climbs up a spectacular series of ledges in 12 loops. At the top are two picture-perfect Rest Houses which offer an array of breathtaking views of the lush expanse of jungle and the interlocking valleys below. On a rainy day, clouds float about in the ghats and numerous streams spring to life and gurgle down the slopes. As some distance is the tribal village of Bahigaon, famous for its warmth and dances.

An hour’s drive from Keshkal is the craft town of Kondagaon, where several colonies of artists practice exciting traditions in pottery (Kumharpara), wrought iron and bell metal craft. West of Kondagaon, again an hour’s drive, is the tribal town of Narayanpur, famous all over Bastar for its Madai, an unbridled celebration of of undiluted tribal culture, and its unique bamboo craft. The Ghotuls, where unmarried youth mix in a bold social custom of courtship, can also be visited in the vicinity.

Among several of the region’s Forest Sanctuaries is the Wildlife Reserve at Sitanadi, to the north-east of Kanker. An old British Rest House sits atop the central hill around which spreads a dense forest. The Reserve protects, among other species of wildlife, sambhar, bear, leopard, Spoted deer, wolf, line fox, langur, peacock, bird of paradise and jungle fowl. It is also being prepared for the tigers. Approximately 30 Kms south-west of Kanker is the reservoir of Dudhawa. A toy-like Rest House on a hill overlooks a vast expanse of water, an ideal setting for angling and bird watching!